Today was unexpected; never was there a talk of wind or waves, but out of habit I woke up and checked the wind reports and wave cams anyway. The meters were all in the single digits and seemed hopeless, but there was a nice little bump on the ocean, so I grabbed some wax and a wetsuite and headed for democrats to find consistent waist to shoulder high, glassy, peeling waves. The surf was good for about out two hours where I was able link together 4 to 5 turns easily on the long, well formed lines until the incoming tide eventually smothered the sand bar.
Driving out of the parking lot I found myself to be in a great mood after the fun surf sesh, it must have been the thrill of actually scoring some waves on my day off, but as I came to the bridge I noticed there was an abundance of white caps on the Great South Bay coming from an easterly direction. A quick call to Mike Burns confirmed that the meter at near by Blue Point had just spiked to 19, so I stepped on the gas and headed to Heckscher.
On site, 5.4 was the call and with the freestyle board it was planeable for about 45 minutes on relatively flat chop. The water, which required a 4/3 suite just two weeks ago was warm enough to get away with board shorts and a rash guard.
Today was by no means the most epic, gnarly or awesome conditions I've ever had, but the stoke of getting something from nothing made it seem that way.